


Hello! I have been threatening to start a blog for quite awhile now and am finally getting round to it. Thanks for looking in.
The point is to provide a view of what I see happening in the Gunks and the climbing community in general, and to spread the word about what we are up to at
Alpine Endeavors. Most of you are probably familiar with the guide service and with Marty.
While working full-time for the ski patrol at Belleayre Mt. this winter, I filled in most of my spare time guiding ice in the Catskills. Though the winter began mildly, we ended up with mostly sustained cold from the middle of January through March, allowing for lots of great adventures climbing ice. We split time mainly between Stoney and Platte Cloves, with a visit to Buttermilk
Ravine for the Back Country Ice Fest. Seven of us made the hike into Buttermilk through deep snow on a bitterly cold day and were rewarded with thick ice in a pristine setting; it was brilliant. Perhaps my favorite moderate outing was the multiple falls of upper Platte Clove--the Japanese Falls, Bridalveil and Platte Kill Falls. This combination gives five pitches on five separate waterfalls, all in a gorgeous setting.
My last day of ice climbing was in The Devil's Kitchen on March 24th, and with the cold snap in early April we likely could have squeezed in another couple of days.
Most of April was more winter than spring, with rain and cold and some significant snow falling in the Catskills through mid month. But, we are now in the midst of some beautiful spring weather. Things have thawed dramatically and the forests are rapidly turning green. For six or more days in a row, we have had 70-80 degree temps, with dry and crystal blue skies. Perfect.
We have been climbing quite a bit in the Trapps, and true to form, the weekends have been congested while the weekdays are far less busy. A visitor from the city told me today how happy he was to have so many classic routes to himself. I told we could share.
We have also begun work at Sky Top. After years of quiet, persistent negotiations, Marty Molitoris worked out a program with the Mohonk Mountain House in which Alpine Endeavors will provide guided climbing services to overnight guests of the hotel. This is a remarkable development. Due to liability concerns and other issues, the Mt. House closed Sky Top to climbing nearly fifteen years ago. Sky Top is arguably one of the single best crags in North America, and it's closure has been a tragic blow to the climbing community. Though these current developments do not mean the crag is now open, it is a step forward and perhaps one day we will see Sky Top open to the climbing community on some level again. It is certainly a great honor to be part of this process. The Mohonk House has such a wonderful history, and, of course, all of us who enjoy playing in and living near to the Mohonk Preserve owe a tremendous debt of gratitude to the Smiley family for their vision in preserving this fantastic land resource, which includes both the Mt. House property, the 6,500 acre Mohonk Preserve and most of what is now Minnewaska State Park. This fantastic undeveloped swath of land would likely be another exclusive McMansion Land if it were not for their vision.
Well, please check in regularly for more on what is happening with us, and I'll at least try to reward you with some cool photos for your trouble.
Cheers.